Laos, we apologize for underestimating you.
Sincerely, Alex & Steve
We began to discuss visiting Laos while still in the US. The reviews were mixed…”unsafe, poor infrastucture” and “SE Asia of 20 years ago, lush and beautiful.” We decided to give Laos a 10 day visit. As we flew into Laos from Hanoi, we were in awe of the seemingly endless jungle mountain landscape covered with blue sky and cottonball white clouds. After spending time in our two target cities of Luang Prabang (north Laos) and Vientiane (south on the Thai border), we know we left some great exploration on the table – especially in the mountain areas, which generally require 2-3 day trreks. BUT, we had a great time in the cities and outdoors and would encourage others to enjoy the leisurely pace and naturual beauty of Laos!
Luang Prabang:
Jungle, Mountains, Rivers & Rich Culture
Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1995, is a picturesque town located in northern Laos at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. The town is famous for its cultural heritage and well-preserved architecture with a fusion of traditional Lao wooden houses and colonial European influences. It is the main city for tourism in Laos and while reports of overtourism are common, we did not experience that in LP. The city has a nice relaxing vibe that makes strolling the river and main streets quite enjoyable – especially if you’re coming from busier cities in SE Asia. LP offers a nice mix of city, outdoor activity options, and culture. We cruised the Mekong at sunset, trekked to a defunct private nature park (and got lost twice), and explored the Kuang Si waterfalls. We found the activities fun and the people were particularly warm. We were greeted by locals and children with smiles and genuine curiosity. We especially enjoyed the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre (TEAC), which was displaying clothing and textiles created by indigenous peoples and noting how modern fashion designers often copy these cultural items, without crediting the artisans who have crafted the designs for generations. (See our pics of the beautiful clothing designs.) We both agree, there is a lot to like in Luang Prabang and we had a great time!
A Quick Visit with Vientiane
Vientiane was Laos’ capital from 1560 to 1828. The city was then completely destroyed in a disastrous war with Siam (Thailand), and the royal family moved the capital back to Luang Prabang where it had been previously. Vientiane lay in ruins until the French rebuilt it as the capital of the French Protectorate in 1899; it has remained the capital ever since, even though the royal family stayed in Luang Prabang from 1828 until the Communists threw them out in 1975. Vientieane is Laos’ largest city at around 750K with a downtown area that seems international and contemporary while holding onto a smaller city feel. We walked the river-area parks, strolled by fountains and historic sites, and visited a variety of temples. Vientiane is a nice place to pull up an outdoor table and sip some coffee, enjoy a pastry, and chat with a mix of locals, expats and tourists.
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